Skin Bleaching: Illuminating the Darkness of a Cultural Commodity

To those in Western nations, the concept of desiring a lighter, fairer complexion may be foreign, like something out of a dream in comparison to our radiant bronzed bodies. The issue is rarely reported on by mainstream press, and American and European people seem to take part in its antithesis, self-tanning, much more fervently and frequently than skin lightening. However, 40% of women -- as stated by the World Health Organization -- across all 54 countries comprising Africa bleach their skin regularly, and the process is so widespread that it has become equally common in regions like Thailand and India over the years. In fact, skin lightening can be found in virtually every corner of the globe but has been much more normalized amongst non-white populations for the past several decades, which begs the question: How has such a disturbing trend been swept under the rug for so long? Thanks to an inculcation of skin-bleaching culture, this practice has been established as mandatory for black people in order to climb the rungs of social ladders to increased status. Along with heightened rank, skin bleaching has many other motivations and factors that disproportionately target African populations, which in turn lead to several detrimental economic, physical, and mental consequences. 

Colorism, supposed success in work and life, global brands, and social media all come into play when considering why people turn towards skin bleaching in the first place. According to the reputable Cambodian newspaper Phnom Penh Post, the process of making one’s skin lighter through a variety of chemicals and external substances can be traced back to early Victorian times, when those in Queen Elizabeth I’s court would paint their faces white with arsenic in order to give them the impression of being pure, noble, and dignified (“Skin bleaching”). The practice has no doubt been exacerbated by racism and discrimination that has been directed towards black people over centuries, according to Lynn M. Thomas, a Professor of History at the University of Washington. When discussing South Africa’s problems with skin color, Thomas says that these issues “have been importantly shaped by the history of white supremacy and institutions of racial slavery, colonialism, and segregation”. Due to European colonisation and its long-standing dominion over mainly ethnic populations, the concept of lighter skin has become associated with wealth, power, and beauty in these countries, a direct reflection of the privileges of their white oppressors. In fact, those with lighter skin are continually treated better than those with darker complexions in all aspects of life. Take Nigeria, for example. Here, businesses list requests for potential employees, and the Nigerian Tribune reports that alongside “requirements for the prospective position, profession and education, physical consequences are listed too. It is the case now that someone described as dusky or black may be skipped in favour of one who is of a fairer complexion” (“Confronting the Perils”). It is obvious that skin color has an impact on the socioeconomic level of an individual in Africa, thus making the issue even harder to regulate when it is so closely linked to wealth and success in the workplace. 

Another factor that illuminates the booming business of skin bleaching is the influence of global corporations. Skin lightening is a thriving market valued at $31.2 billion worldwide (Thomas), and companies have very large stakes in it. Ramya M. Vijaya, a Professor of Economics at the University of Stockton, writes that brands like Unilever, Beiersdorf and L'Oreal are particularly adept at marketing their wares, with campaigns ranging from beauty queen Omowunmi Akinnifesi instantly lightening her skin to all-natural, organic creams lauded as healthier alternatives to banned whitening products. According to Ngunan Adamu of BBC Radio Merseyside, social media has also long been permeated with promotional content for skin bleaching by influencers such as businessman Pela Okiemute on Instagram, who “has been nicknamed Nigeria’s Hottest Cream Mixer, with a following of over 100,000 people on Instagram, beauty salons in Nigeria, and a list of clients who want to emulate his glow”. Clearly, these tactics are effective, and the propagation of multinational firms, when coupled with major media platforms, are significant stimuli for those first dipping their toes in the industry of skin lightening. 

Consequently, there are many adverse effects stemming from these varied catalysts of skin bleaching, ranging from economic to bodily repercussions. Firstly, due to lax government regulation and misinformation from many administrations, skin bleaching is still on the rise. Back in the early 1990s, activists in South Africa were able to ban “all cosmetic skin lighteners containing known depigmenting agents” (Thomas). However, thirty years later, there is a surging black market of skin-lightening agents in South Africa, and many of them also contain harmful chemicals such as mercury, which was thought to have been effaced from products decades back (Thomas). This is particularly worrying as mercury is known to be poisonous and causes kidney damage, numbness, and nerve paralysis (“Confronting the Perils”). Also, though steps have been taken by countries like Kenya and Rwanda to limit the spread of skin-bleaching products and their ingredients, such as hydroquinone, the poor efficacy of standards “makes it easy for companies to advertise their products on billboards and for people to purchase knock-off substances containing chemicals such as steroids and lead from black markets” (“Skin bleaching”). An economic divide is also becoming more pronounced throughout Africa, and in places such as Ghana and the Ivory Coast, illicit trade of skin lighteners is becoming more prevalent due to lower-income citizens seeking out “cheaper, local products” in an effort to imitate their wealthier counterparts (Vijaya). 

Moreover, physical and mental risks are also making themselves known as people are lightening their skin more than ever. Injections and glutathione tablets are very toxic and can be absorbed into the bloodstream of those who use them; in fact, scientists still know little about their impacts on the human body (“Skin bleaching”). While younger generations favor these practices, creams and traditional substances are still sold widely. The chemicals in these products damage “kidney and reproductive systems, cause cancer… and lead to deformity in unborn babies” (“Confronting the Perils”). Additionally, as stated by Adamu, people pursue skin bleaching for valid reasons, such as vitiligo and melasma, but usually there are underlying peer-pressure mentalities which push people to go through with such treatments. This stigma and the greater psychological effects which stem from this process, combined with its physical and social effects, are experienced by many across Africa on a daily basis. 

In conclusion, skin bleaching is still a pervasive issue that impacts people’s lives dramatically due to its amplification by racism, media, and a variety of other factors. Only by instituting systemic reforms and opening up an honest discourse about this practice with citizens, companies, and global governments alike can individuals have full autonomy over their skin-lightening decisions. 

Works Cited

Adamu, Ngunan. “Enduring Taboos and the Future of Skin Bleaching.” Wellcome Collection,

Creative Commons, 25 Apr. 2019, wellcomecollection.org/articles/XKsU0xIAADlrL4-h. Accessed 

22 Mar. 2020.

"Confronting The Perils Of Skin Bleaching." Nigerian Tribune [Oyo State, Nigeria], 

29 Mar. 2019. Gale In Context: Global Issues, https://link.gale.com/apps/doc/A580607842/GIC?

u=los42754&sid=GIC&xid=d2d2ed0b. Accessed 12 Mar. 2020.

"Skin bleaching in Africa: An 'addiction' with health risks." Phnom Penh Post [Phnom Penh, Cambodia], 10 Aug. 2018. Gale In Context: Global Issues, https://link.gale.com/apps/doc/A549598182/GIC?u=los42754&sid=GIC&xid=25a3f0ee. Accessed 10 Mar. 2020.

Thomas, Lynn M. "Victory against colourism." Sunday Independent [South Africa], 8 Mar.
2020, p. 8. Gale In Context: Global Issues, https://link.gale.com/apps/doc/A616665178/GIC?u=los42754&sid=GIC&xid=cf910c3a. Accessed 10 Mar. 2020.

Vijaya, Ramya M. "Dangerous skin bleaching has become a public health crisis. 

Corporate marketing lies behind it." Washingtonpost.com, 15 June 2019. Gale In Context: Global Issues, https://link.gale.com/apps/doc/A589198013/GIC?u=los42754&sid=GIC&xid=4abea816. Accessed 11 Mar. 2020.